Mold Terminator: Rise of the Ozone Machines

The problems caused by mold in a home or business are numerous: destroying surfaces, causing allergic reaction, scarring lung tissue in humans and pets, and a slew of other problems. Unchecked, mold can render a space completely unusable, and stopping it at all can be difficult as mold is an organic material that fights nearly as hard to stay alive than anyone can to kill it. However, there is one comparatively simple and effective way of killing mold: ozone machines.

Mold can go into any space via the outside world since the only three things it needs to survive can be found just about anywhere. Its best temperature is the same as ours (anything over 60°F) and its nutrients can be anything organic from wooden wall-boards to fiber carpeting. However, mold also needs high levels of moisture, which spares most areas from invasion but leaves basements and flooded areas particularly susceptible. If one can see or smell mold on any level, there is already a problem, and it is one that cannot just be “lived with.” The spores that mold continuously throws into the air can cause a range of health problems from headache to fatigue, eye irritation to harsh respiration.

These spores also make mold very hard to kill. Scraping away visible mold or dousing it with bleach is far from enough as once the spores are abundant enough in the air to be smelled (and already at levels lower than this) they can re-settle on any lightly damp area. Negative ion machines and most air filtration methods will not kill spores. Ultra violet light will not kill them, nor insignificant removal of rotten materials, carpets, or walls. Ozone machines will.

Using an ozone machine on mold is a bit like, excusing the cliché, fighting fire with fire. Also a poison to organic material, ozone can kill not only the physical mold one can see, but also all of the spores in the air. However, because of its decay time of half an hour and without of reproduction skills, ozone will not be a problem for people, pets, or character after treatment.

Treating mold with an ozone machine is not complicated, but it does require effort. First, quite clearly, one must own or rent a machine. The milligram-per-hour output must be at the minimum 2,000 (already for a closet) and the higher the better. Because ozone decays quickly, running a 3,000 machine for two hours does not equate to a 6,000 for an hour. If there is a recurring mold problem in multiple rooms or semi-frequent flooding, owning a machine is not a bad investment. In fact, no ozone treatment is perfect, so already the best machine run perfectly for a long period of time might not kill all mold, and more than one shock treatment may be necessary. consequently, buying a machine for a one-room problem, if bad enough, is quite reasonable.

Ozone works best in the environments that mold fares worst: dry and free of visible mold. Helping the machine along by cranking up the heat better ensures sanitation, and a dehumidifier is best. Along the same lines, spraying bleach onto visible mold will help the ozone reach under-layers and spores. After doing all this, turn on the ozone machine complete blast for at the minimum two hours – longer for a larger room and/or a bad mold problem. After everything is set, take anything that is supposed to keep alive out of the room and stay out until two hours after the machine has turned off. Ozone is a killer, so that includes potted-plants and pet tarantulas in addition as mold. The more ozone is treated like a necessary poison, the better, and sealing off the room by shutting doors and windows, closing vents, and plugging all access points to the rest of the building would be wise. However, some air must nevertheless be able to get in (say a window left open about three inches) because the great majority of ozone machines work by converting ambient air (O2) into ozone (O3).

Ozone machines are the best chance to solve a mold problem, but they are far from perfect. If mold has seeped into the wall-space, the wall-boards or plaster must be removed, the space ozone treated, then replaced. If the carpet has been flooded and is infected, it must also be removed (and painting the floor beneath the substitute with and oil-based paint is a good idea). already if replacing large things like these, ozone treatment is nevertheless necessary to try to kill the spores and any unseen mold.

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